Community & Numismatic Articles

<body topmargin=0 leftmargin=0 marginheight=0 marginwidth=0> <table cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 border=0><tr> <td valign="top" height=100 BGCOLOR="#CCCCFF" TEXT="#080000" bgproperties="fixed" background="06e00640egdysm.jpg"> <div> <FONT SIZE="5" COLOR="#000099" FACE="Arial" ><B>                            </B></FONT><FONT SIZE="1" COLOR="#000099" FACE="Arial" ><B>                   </B></FONT><FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="#FFFFFF" FACE="Arial" ><B>  </B><A HREF="index.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Danscoins.com"><U><B>Home</B></U></A><B>    </B><B>     </B></FONT><FONT SIZE="1" COLOR="#000099" FACE="Arial" ><B> </B></FONT><FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="#000099" FACE="Arial" ><B> </B></FONT><A HREF="id17.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Gold"><U><B>Gold</B></U></A><B> </B>| <A HREF="id66.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Paper Money"><U><B>Paper Money</B></U></A><B> </B>|<A HREF="id18.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="US Coins"><U><B> US Coins</B></U></A><B> </B>|<B> </B><A HREF="id19.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="World Coins"><U><B>World Coins</B></U></A><B> </B>| <A HREF="id20.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Supplies"><U><B>Supplies</B></U></A> |<B> * </B><A HREF="id21.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Specials"><U><B>Specials</B></U></A><B> *</B><B> </B>|<B> </B><A HREF="id22.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Our Policy"><U><B>Our Policy</B></U></A> |<B> </B><A HREF="id23.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="About Us"><U><B>About Us</B></U></A> |<B> </B><A HREF="id24.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Contact Us"><U><B>Contact Us</B></U></A><FONT SIZE="1" COLOR="#FFFFFF" FACE="Arial" ><B> </B></FONT></div> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <B> <form target="paypal" action="https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr" method="post"> <input type="hidden" name="cmd" value="_s-xclick"> <input type="hidden" name="encrypted" value="-----BEGIN PKCS7-----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-----END PKCS7----- "> <input type="image" src="https://www.paypal.com/en_US/i/btn/btn_viewcart_SM.gif" border="0" name="submit" alt="PayPal - The safer, easier way to pay online!"> <img alt="" border="0" src="https://www.paypal.com/en_US/i/scr/pixel.gif" width="1" height="1"> </form>  </B></div> <div> </div> </td> </tr><tr> <td valign="top" height=380 BGCOLOR="#FFFFFF" TEXT="#080000"> <div> <I>Community & Numismatic Articles</I></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <I>"Please enjoy these community articles to help with your</I></div> <div> <I> hobbys, as I have enjoyed bringing them to you."  </I><FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#003399" FACE="Arial" ><I>-Daniel</I></FONT></div> <bR> <bR> <div> Other great Texas community information</div> <div> -<A HREF="http://wintertexaninfo.com" TARGET="_top" TITLE="http://wintertexaninfo.com"><U>www.wintertexaninfo.com</U></A>-</div> <div> -<A HREF="http://www.rgvpride.com/rio_grande_valley_directory.html" TARGET="_top" TITLE="http://www.rgvpride.com/rio_grande_valle"><U>www.rgvpride.com</U></A>-</div> <div> -<A HREF="http://rgvactivities.com/default.aspx" TARGET="_top" TITLE="http://rgvactivities.com/default.aspx"><U>www.rgvactivities.com</U></A>-</div> <div> - <A HREF="http://welcomehomergv.com" TARGET="_top" TITLE="http://welcomehomergv.com"><U>www.welcomehomergv.com</U></A>-</div> <div> -<A HREF="http://www.rgvtexas.com" TARGET="_top" TITLE="http://www.rgvtexas.com"><U>http://www.rgvtexas.com</U></A>-</div> <bR> <bR> <div> *Newest Article Contributed*</div> <bR> <div> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="250" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 19 WIDTH="238"><div> Counterfeit Detection:</div> </tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <div> By NGC & NCS inc.</div> <div> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="915" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 1016 WIDTH="429"><div> <I>  </I><I><B>Counterfeit </B></I><FONT SIZE="4" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><I>  1924-S Standing Liberty Quarter</I></FONT></div> <bR> <div> This counterfeit quarter dollar likely wasn’t made to fool collectors, but to circulate as money. Let’s take a look at the signs that show us it’s not genuine.</div> <bR> <div> As we’ve said in previous Counterfeit Detection columns, no US coinage issue is immune from counterfeiting. Classic rarities and key dates, like the 1804 dollar and the 1916-D dime, are frequent targets of counterfeiting, but so too are more common coins. In fact, virtually every classic US coin has been counterfeited. NGC has even encountered complete date and mintmark sets of Morgan Dollars, Seated Liberty Half Dollars and Trade Dollars — all fake!</div> <div>      </div> <div> Counterfeit 1924-S Standing Liberty Quarter</div> <bR> <div> While the origins of this 1924-S Standing Liberty Quarter are not precisely known, it’s believed to be a Depression-era counterfeit, made to circulate at its face value. In other words, it’s an old fake. Many such contemporary fakes are seen in average circulated grades and have fairly obvious flaws that don’t fool collectors, but wouldn’t have caused any hiccup in daily commerce. While 1921 and 1923-S quarters, among other dates, can be worth several hundred dollars in fine condition, the 1924-S is worth only about $40. Usually, it’s just not worth a counterfeiter’s time to focus too much effort on replicating a circulated 1924-S quarter — although uncirculated copies and coins altered to appear full head do exist for this date.</div> <bR> <div> All the details of this coin are "mushy" and indistinct, even for a circulated example. That alone should cause any authenticator to pick up a magnifier and take a closer look. Authentication examinations usually start by looking at the date and mintmark. Without question, the first thing worthy of close examination on this coin is its mintmark. On genuine examples the mintmark will be tall, upright and have serifs. This coin shows a misshapen mintmark that is comparatively squat, leaning and without serifs. It is rather crudely rendered and rough in appearance, rather unlike the mark seen on genuine coins.</div> <bR> <div> Although this coin is low-grade, it’s worth looking for tooling marks or other die flaws that help to identify it. A series of raised lines are visible under the "Y" in "LIBERTY." While heavy die polish does appear on some genuine Standing Liberty Quarters of this era, these marks are deeper than they should be, as though they were created with a file or on an improperly prepared die. An unusual die feature like this isn’t always condemning, but taken in combination with the bad mintmark, there’s enough evidence to make this an open-and-shut case.</div> <bR> </tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="35"><div>  </div> </tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="425"><bR> <div> <IMG SRC="4c6f5f50.jpg" border=0 width="245" height="245" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="4c7f5900.jpg" border=0 width="245" height="144" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="4c8f5f50.jpg" border=0 width="245" height="245" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="4c9f5b80.jpg" border=0 width="245" height="184" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> </tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="250" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 19 ><NOBR><div> Deception Includes Condition</div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <div> By NGC & NCS inc.</div> <div> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="915" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 1451 WIDTH="429"><div> <I>   </I><FONT SIZE="4" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><I>  One common way that counterfeiters attempt to deceive is by faking wear or damage. This is shown by looking at recently submitted fakes of an 1877 Indian Cent and a 1901-S Barber Quarter.</I></FONT></div> <bR> <div>      When it comes to the counterfeiter’s craft, attempts at deception don’t stop after making a fake coin. Most fake coins will also receive some form of treatment to simulate honest wear from circulation. Since NGC offers Details Grading for coins with detrimental surface conditions, occasionally we will see fake coins that have been damaged in order to trick an authenticator. Recently we received submissions of two key date coins that showed extreme post-striking alteration; however, the fakery was still evident.</div> <div>      The 1877 Indian Cent is a classic rarity. It has the second-lowest mintage in the series and is the most valuable coin in the series in low grade. In Good-4 condition, it has a NumisMedia FMV of $880! Recently a submitter sent us the example pictured. The shape of the design and date logotype immediately revealed to our authenticators that the coin was bad, but its condition was more curious. It is very dark brown in color, but red flecks show from underneath. The contrast is a sign that the dark color is a result of chemical reaction. Areas of the design are unusual, even flat, hinting at accelerated wear. The reverse of the coin is almost completely effaced by a chemical corrosion. </div> <bR> <div>      Another coin recently submitted to NGC was the 1901-S Barber Quarter. Only 72,664 were struck and it’s one of the most important silver coins of the twentieth century. In a grade of Good-4, it has a NumisMedia FMV of $5,700. Wow! It’s also a date that’s commonly counterfeited. Die struck copies, alterations from other dates and added mintmarks are abundant. </div> <div>      Here again the shape of the devices were wrong, and the coin was immediately identified as fake. Note, for example, the sixth star that has long points, while on a genuine coin, the points are quite short. But the wear pattern is also obviously curious. This coin shows heavy abrasion created with a file, and file marks are still clearly visible. In grades below VG, the word LIBERTY is never visible on Liberty’s head band. Despite the extreme <I>wear</I>, the word is visible – again bizarre. Rather than being toned, the recesses of the coin have been covered in a red Dykem dye, presenting a highly atypical appearance for a Barber Quarter of any grade. All these things were done to this coin in order to make it appear real. </div> <div> Sometimes the desire for a coin to be genuine makes a heavily worn example more deceptive. The eye can see what’s not there and be fooled. And, of course, some of the obvious diagnostics won’t be visible. It’s important to take a step back and ask: is there actual wear or has this coin been altered? Purposeful damage like this should arouse suspicion! </div> <bR> <bR> </tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="35"><div>  </div> </tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP><NOBR><div> <IMG SRC="4ad68b60.jpg" border=0 width="360" height="694" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> <IMG SRC="4ae68ba0.jpg" border=0 width="360" height="698" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="298" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 19 ><NOBR><div> The Counterfeit Coin Detection Kit</div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <div> By Susan Headley</div> <div> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="915" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 829 WIDTH="429"><div> How to Detect Counterfeit Coins Using 5 Simple Tools</div> <bR> <div> Anybody can detect counterfeit U.S. coins using five simple, inexpensive tools. In this article, I explain what these tools are and how to use them to protect yourself against fake coins and counterfeits.</div> <bR> <div> <B>A Simple Magnet</B></div> <div> You can use a simple magnet to rule out many Chinese-made counterfeit coins because about 70% of all fake coins from China are produced with iron-based planchets (coin blanks). Since there has only ever been one single circulating U.S. coin that should be attracted to a magnet (the1943 steel penny), virtually any U.S. coin that sticks to a magnet is counterfeit.</div> <div> <B>How to use: </B>You will need a strong magnet to detect small amounts of iron. Hold the magnet near the coin and see if they attract, even a little bit. If the magnet sticks to a U.S. coin, the coin is virtually certain to be a counterfeit. (Note that Canada has been using steel in their coin blanks for decades, so this test has no meaning for many Canadian coins.)</div> <bR> <div> <B>A Gram Scale Accurate to at Least One Tenth Gram</B></div> <div> Many Chinese Counterfeiters use scrap metal to make their coin blanks. As a result, the coins are usually underweight. The coins can also be underweight for other reasons, such as shrinkage from using cast dies or cast blanks. The U.S. Mint adheres to very narrow tolerances for error in weight and diameter, so any U.S. coin that is off by more than 1% is highly suspect.</div> <div> <B>How to use: </B>Make sure your scale can weigh to the tenth of a gram (0.10) or better. Do not use diet scales that weigh whole grams because they are not accurate enough. Place the coin on the scale and then compare the weight to the known proper weight standard (see below) for that coin. If it is off by more than 1%, the coin is a suspected counterfeit.</div> <bR> <div> <B>A Caliper Accurate to the Hundredth of an Inch</B></div> <div> A caliper is a device that is used for measuring the diameter of a coin. The U.S. Mint was extremely precise in making coins of the proper diameter, so any coin that is too small, even by a little bit, is highly suspect. Counterfeit coins are frequently underweight and undersized.</div> <bR> </tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="35"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="829" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="35" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="425"><div> <B>How to use: </B>Slide the caliper jaws to the closed position and calibrate it to zero (usually by pressing a "set" or "zero" button.) Then slowly slide the jaws open until they are touching the edges of the coin across from each other. Make sure the coin is snug between the jaws (but not too tight) and read the result. Compare your measurement to known U.S. Mint standards for that coin. If the coin is too small, it is a suspected fake.</div> <bR> <div> <B>A High-Powered Magnifier or Loupe</B></div> <div> A magnifier that has a minimum power rating of 8x (8 times magnification, or "8 power") will allow you to see details on the surface of the coin that are invisible to the naked eye. Ideally, you should use a 10x or greater triplet loupe, which has much greater clarity (but is also more expensive.)</div> <div> <B>How to use: </B>Hold the coin in one hand, and the magnifier in the other. Move the coin around to inspect its surface, looking for signs of bubbles or pimples on the surface, or seams or file marks on the edge. Also look for characteristics normal for that type of coin by comparing to a known genuine specimen. "Soapy" looking or bumpy surfaces can be a sign of a counterfeit.</div> <bR> <div> <B>A Reference of Standards for U.S. Coin Types</B></div> <div> In order to determine if your weight and diameter measurements are within U.S. Mint tolerances, you will need to compare them to known U.S. coin specifications. Most general-purpose coin price guides, such as the Red Book have these specifications noted. Although the allowable amount of deviation from the Mint's specifications varies for each type of coin, all of the tolerances are very, very small. Any coin that is a gram underweight or eighth inch too small is way out of tolerance and probably a fake.</div> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <B>How to use: </B>Weigh and measure you coin, and compare your findings to known specifications. If they are off by more than 1% (either too heavy or too light) your coin is a suspected counterfeit.</div> </tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="326" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 19 ><NOBR><div> <B>How to make images of your coins  </B><FONT SIZE="2" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><B>Ch. 1</B></FONT></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <div> By Dans Coins</div> <div> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="915" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 838 WIDTH="429"><div> (a.) <B>The importance of the right equipment</B></div> <bR> <div> <B>Scanner:</B></div> <div> For most images I use an HP OFFICE JET J4580 all in one printer scanner. This works very well for raw(unslabbed) coins. Over the years I have used several other different scanners and this one works best because it makes good images of proof coins and none of the others I've personally tried did.</div> <div> There are some limitations to using a scanner because it doesn't always show the cameo and luster of some proofs. Unfortunately this scanner is so sensitive that it wont scan slabs because being incapacitated there slightly elevated off the scanner, this tends to distort the image making it unusable.</div> <div> For quality images its important to spend a little money and get the best quality you can afford but it doesn't need to be top of the line to suffice. For a scanner you will want to look for one that is able to have a high dpi resolution.</div> <bR> <bR> <div> <B>Digital Camera:</B></div> <bR> <div> The most important feature of any digital camera is whats called "Macro" which basically means it has the ability to focus on close ups of coins in this case. Without said ability the camera would be almost useless for taking pictures of coins.</div> <div> First a word about the camera, good high quality 35mm cameras do make excellent images of coins.  I use Sony Cyber-shot DSC-H10 digital camera. I like digital cameras better because they cost much less to operate than a camera with film. Also with a digital camera you can see your results right now as opposed to waiting for the film to be developed.</div> <div> I like this camera because it makes excellent images of slabbed coins. The cost of your equipment will easily come back to you in the quality of your images. This camera that I am recommending is a very good mid quality affordable digital camera that is accessible to almost anyone. Price is about $250 or less range.</div> </tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="35"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="838" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="35" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="425"><div> (b.) <B>Basics of Scanner use for making images of coins.</B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> After you have selected a good scanner the time begins to start using it to it's full potential.</div> <div> First of all you would want to make sure your scanner is correctly installed, plugged in, turned on and ready to fire up!</div> <div> If you are not sure about the installation of your scanner refer to your manual or quick-start guide. As a rule of thumb for any external device(such as a scanner) make sure you put the CD in your computer and install the software and drivers before actually connecting it to your computer.</div> <div> If you believe you are ready then next begins the actual using of your scanner. To do that you would need to interface with the software which allows you to control your scanner and by interface I mean open it up and start using it. I have personally noticed that most scanning software that comes with any new scanner is quite complicated and not very user-friendly. If you happen to not be acquainted with the software that came with your scanner I would recommend using the pre-installed scanning program that is within your PC operating system. (Sorry mac users!) This is what I personally use as it works with every scanner and happens to be easy to use and free, both of which are always a plus in my book. This is also the program I will be briefly explaining how to use.</div> <div> The name of which is called "Microsoft Paint" you may have heard of it before but probably didn't know it works great for using with your scanner. It's what I like to call a 2-in-1 as I use it acquire the scanned image as well as to Crop, rotate, and marry together front and back pictures of coins all in one program. If you are not sure where to find this program on your PC I would recommend going to your start menu which is the button to the lower left hand side of your screen: START>All Programs> Accessories>Paint.</div> <div> Once you have located and opened the program you should see a blank white page as well as some options on the top and left side of the screen within the program. (If you are using windows 7 or above the different options will only be on the top part of the screen only.)</div> <bR> </tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="326" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 20 ><NOBR><div> <B>How to make images of your coins </B><B> </B><B>Ch. 2</B></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <div> By Dans Coins</div> <div> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="915" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 1165 WIDTH="429"><div>  <B>Basics of Scanner use for making images of coins</B></div> <bR> <div> Now the way you get the images from your scanner to the computer is through an option called "From Scanner or Camera". You get to that option from clicking the "File" menu. Once you have clicked File on the upper left hand side of the screen a small menu will appear below it and you will now see the option "From Scanner or Camera". Clicking that option will open the Scanner Interface program and will allow you to start making scans. If your scanner was installed correctly the program should auto-detect the scanner. Now you should be at the Scanner Options menu and greeted with a message on top saying "What do you want to scan?" If you look right below that you will be given a few different multiple choice options, the only option that is important to you is the one located at the bottom called "Custom Settings". That option will allow you to set specific resolutions for the scans. (Resolution is the Size of the digital image that is created once a scan is completed. Too big and you will have a very large picture on your hands, too small and your picture will be hard to see.)</div> <div>  To set the specific scan resolution you would like to use simply click the link right below the "Custom Settings" option we already selected. The link is named "Adjust the quality of the scanned picture" clicking the link will open a new small window with options to set the resolution. This is where we put the numeric size of the resolution. I personally use 300 for small coins and 200 for large coins as this makes all the fine detail visible without making the image to large. Once you have entered the resolution size hit the OK button. (I don't recommend adjusting any other settings in that window as it could distort the image of the coin.)</div> <div>  Once you have clicked the OK button the time begins to make your scan but before you do that I would recommend making sure your scanner flatbed is cleaned off, you might want to wipe your scanner with a *very* lightly damp cloth as even slight partials or fibers may show up in a scan. After you have done so place your coin on your scanner in a nice straight spot. Finally hit the "Preview" button on the scanner program, this will activate your scanner and it will begin to scan. (Don't forget to close the scanner lid!) Once the preview is complete you should see a full picture of what the scanner has pickedup. This is where you can Crop or ajust what exactly you want scanned. If you are satistifed hit the "Scan" button which will finish the scanned image and send it to the Paint program. That is where you can do the finishing touches on your image and save it. You then save your image to any location you like by selecting FILE>Save as - which will then prompt for the name of your newly scanned image as well as the location to save it to, like your pictures folder or Desktop.</div> <bR> </tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="35"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1165" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="35" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="425"><div> (a.)<B>How to get your camera ready for taking pictures of coins</B></div> <bR> <div> While each digital camera is different they all have basic similaritys. Today I'm going to explain the basics of using a digital camera for taking pictures of coins.</div> <div> Firstly you would want to make sure you have your digital cameras battery charged and ready to go. After turning on your camera you would then want to look for a Macro or Closeup function which may be under Menu. That is what allows clear in-focused pictures of coins to be taken. Without it your pictures would be out of focus. Once you have located and activated the macro function you would then want to set the resolution size and quality. I recommend the highest size and highest quality as you can always lower the quality and size later after the picture is taken. (You won't be able to take a small resolution size and quality picture and make it bigger and higher quality later.) After setting the highest picture resolution and activating the macro function in your camera you are now ready to take your pictures. I also recommend disabling your cameras flash function as the flash from the camera may cause a very bright reflection on the coin.</div> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> (b.)<B>How to take good pictures of your coins</B></div> <bR> <div> The environment you capture your pictures in will effect the quality of the picture. A simple example would be if you take the pictures in the dark and your flash is off the picture will be all dark and the coin would not be visible. With that said lighting is very important. There are many different types of lighting. From pure white to more of a yellowish tone. The best light source in my opinion is natural light but that isn't always available for use. Incandescent or florescent work good also. Just make sure the picture you capture is relatively the same as how the actual coin looks. If your lighting is to yellow your coins will come out yellower than they actually are and you wouldn't want that as it would not be an accurate representation of the coin. So to avoid that I recommend making sure you have a good even white lighting source. You would want to make sure as well that the light is evenly dispersed around the coin. Which would be having the coin evenly lighted. To avoid having the top part of the coin well lit and the lower part much darker. Usually the best way to do that is to have a few different light sources or one light source on top.  Adjusting your light sources so the light is even dispensed may require a bit of work but is well worth it in the end when you have a very high quality picture captured of your coin. When you have your lighting setup focus your camera close to your coin adjusting the angle of your camera so the coin is relatively straight without much skewing of the coin. Then press the shutter button to capture the picture. After you have captured the picture review it on your camera to make sure it's how the coin really looks. If the picture came out too dark ajust the lighting to make it brighter. Also look to see if the picture is a little blurry. Blurriness can happen if your camera is to close to the coin or to far away or if your hand wasn't steady enough when the picture was captured. This may take a few tries to finally get a picture you are satisfied with and once you are satisfied you are then ready to transfer the picture from your camera to your computer.</div> <bR> <bR> </tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <bR> <div> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="326" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 20 ><NOBR><div> <B>How to make images of your coins </B><B> Ch. 3</B></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <div> By Dans Coins</div> <div> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="915" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 1524 WIDTH="429"><bR> <div> <B>How to get pictures from your camera to your computer</B></div> <bR> <bR> <div> Depending on the digital camera you have you may be able to connect your computer to the camera via USB cable or by taking the memory card from your camera and inserting it into your computer. If you have a memory card reader on your computer simply remove the memory card from the camera and insert it inside the computer. If you do not have a memory card reader on your computer your only option would then be to connect to the computer via USB. I would recommend installing any software CD that came with the camera first before connecting the camera to your computer. Locate the cord that came with your camera and plug the correct end into your camera and then the other end into your computer. If you have a newer camera the computer should automatically detect the camera and open up its software interface that allows you to save the pictures to different locations in your computer. If you do not have a software program associated with your camera. You can go to START > MY COMPUTER. That is where your computer displays all the currently connected devices like your Hard drive and such. Your camera should be detected here by an Icon of a camera. Double clicking that icon would then open up your cameras memory card displaying your captured pictures. You can then copy the pictures to your Desktop or any location of your choosing. Organizing your pictures is very important as when you start taking picture you will eventually have many different ones on your hands. And if you don't have them organized correctly it would be very difficult to locate or find a certain picture you may be looking for.</div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <B>How to organize your pictures</B></div> <div> As said in the previous article organizing the pictures you capture with your camera or scanner is very important. If you have your pictures scattered in your computer when you would wanted to look for a specific picture it would be a very difficult process to find. In my opinion the best option is to create one Main folder on your computer. The name of that main folder can be any of your choosing. In this instance I will call it "Coin Photos". Once you have that folder created you can then start putting the pictures you have taken in to that fold. Also important when you transfer the pictures from your camera or scanner name the files something relating to what the picture is of. For example if you are taking a picture of a 2001 S Quarter name your file "2001sQ". That would allow easy overview of many different coins and knowing which were which instead of having to open every single picture just to know the date of what the coin is. If you have all your picture files already named correctly and are all located within your "Coin Photos" folder I would recommend making many SUB folders. Some might be named "Quarters" "Dollars" "Dimes" and so on. Keeping coins of each type in their respective folder. Keeping that kind of organization you should very easily be able to locate any specific coin you are looking for when you need to locate one. Take your time and have fun making good images will last you a life time.</div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> (a.) <B>Processing and preparing images for use</B></div> <bR> <div> Converting your raw images for use on the web may seem complicated and difficult but with the right software the job can be quite doable. There are many different photo editing programs out there that work, but I'm going to be discussing Microsoft Paint. Microsoft Paint isn't very complicated and is very powerful for processing images of coins. To find Microsoft Paint on your computer go to START > ALL PROGRAMS > ACCESSORIES > PAINT. Once you have located and opened up the program you will then be able to open an image to begin processing. To open an image go to FILE > OPEN >. A new window will pop up asking where the image you want to use is located at. Once you have found the image you wish to edit you should now see it in the main paint window and can begin making adjustments to the image. There are many different adjustments you can make to your images. Re-size, Crop, Marry images and convert format</div> </tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="35"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1524" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="35" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="425"><bR> <div> (b.) <B>Processing and preparing images for use</B></div> <div> Firstly resizing, you will want to shrink your image if it is to large. If your image is to big it will be hard for others to view on the web or if it's to small it won't be big enough to see the detail. To resize your image select "IMAGE" in the File Menu at the top left hand side of the screen. After selecting "IMAGE" a small drop down menu will appear, select "STRETCH/SKEW". A new small window will open up asking for the specific re-size adjustments. Within the window you will have two different options which are Stretch and Skew. (You would only want to use the Stretch option as Skew distorts the image.) Under Stretch which should be the section on the top, enter the parameter of your liking, remember it is percent based so if you put the number 50 it would make the image 50% smaller and a number of 150 would make it 50% bigger as a number of 100 would keep it at its original size. (Be sure to use the same number for horizontal and vertical to maintain the original aspect ratio.)</div> <bR> <div> (c.) <B>Processing and preparing images for use</B></div> <div> Since you now know how to properly re-size you will then want to begin croping your images with leads us into the next part. A properly croped image looks clean and professional, which is important as you want the focus of the image to be on the subject or in this case the coin rather than the distracting things that may be in the background. Fortunate for us croping is quite simple to do in MS Paint. To begin croping you will need to select "EDIT" then select all. Now when you mouse over your image you will notice your cursor has changed. Click and hold on the image and you will beable to move the image up to the upper left hand side of the screen. Once you have the upper right hand side croped to your happiness release of the mouse to complete the crop. Now to crop the lower right hand side you just find the lower corner of the open window (The white area) and look for a small little box. Mousing over the small little box will change your curser to an arrow pointing at each angle. Click and hold and move your mouse to make the adjustments. And again once you are satisfied release your mouse. If you wish to make a few more adjustments simply repeat the first two steps. (Don't forget you can use the Undo option at any time by press and holding CTRL + Z. Although there are only 3 history states)</div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> (d.) <B>Processing and preparing images for use</B></div> <div> If you take images of the front and back of your coin and would like both images to be in one instead of two you would then want your images "married together". This makes it easier to keep your pictures together and allows for close and easy inspection of the obverse and reverse. Again this will be done in MS Paint. By now you are probably a bit more familiar with it. To start out open MS Paint and load in the obverse of your coin. (It's probably a good idea to crop/resize your coin before getting to this part to allow for an easy transition.) Once you have the obverse image loaded in adjust its position to the upper right hand side of the screen. Now we are almost ready for the reverse image of the coin, but before we do that we will need to make sure there is enough room to load it in without the sides being cutoff. To do that look at the lower right hand side of the screen to find where the small little box is. The same little box we used earlyer to crop images. This time instead of using it to crop the image it will be used to make the image area bigger. So mouse over then click and hold and drag the small little box to be big enough to have room for the reverse image to load in with plenty of room. After you have that completed you will now want to load in the reverse image but instead of clicking File Open you will have to do it via EDIT>PASTE FROM. After you have selected "PASTE FROM" a little window will open up asking which image you would like to load. Find your reverse image and it will now paste it in. If you mouse over your newly pasted image you will have the option to adjust its positioning as it probably loaded in on top of your original image. To adjust the position Click and hold on the image and simply drag and drop where you would like it to be. Once you are happy with both image positions crop down the extras then go to FILE>SAVE AS. That way you won't override your original image.</div> <bR> </tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="326" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 19 ><NOBR><div> <B>Knowledge is the "Key" in Numismatics</B></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <div> By Dans Coins</div> <div> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="915" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 943 WIDTH="429"><div> (a.)</div> <div>   <FONT SIZE="5" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" >T</FONT>o help both the new collector and those who have been around for a while better understand coins and how a coin is graded, one must be ready to spend hours and hours of reading, observing photos, and studying actual graded coins to train their eyes in the observation of a coin. While there is no formal schooling in becoming a numismatologist, many of the experts have simply spent years in the study of numismatics and working an apprenticeship through one of the many third party grading companies.</div> <bR> <div> I myself have collected for years and have found that only through the use of quality photo services provided by the grading companies (which unfortunately is not free) and also through research of graded and encapsulated coins already in my collection, one can train their eyes to spot what to look for in a raw coin before purchasing it. I have found that through the purchase of graded and encapsulated coins of the same variety but different grades, you can clearly see the slight nuances that determine the coins grade. One can purchase cheaper graded US Modern coins to help build a reference library for research and study.</div> <bR> <div> There are many books available that discuss grading and also provide photos or black and white pictures of the same coin in various grades. While these can be used as a quick reference, it is still only through the study of what to look for in a specific variety that builds ones knowledge. It would be beneficial for those who collect a specific coin to try and learn all there is regarding your area of interest. Every variety of coin has specific points of interest to observe in determining a grade. It could be the coat and neckline, the head, the face and even the beard on a Lincoln cent. How much wear is there on the wheat stalks of the "wheat cents". These are just some of the basic areas to look at in the Lincoln cents.</div> <bR> <div> As one can see, each variety has it's own specific characteristics that determine the grade whether it is a Morgan dollar, St Gaudens or simply a Lincoln cent. It involves not only the strike, the luster, and eye appeal but also involves knowing what wear points to observe, what is considered normal wear and what makes a coin a MS versus one that is AU, EF, VF or even a simple Fine.</div> <bR> <div>  The ability to learn how to determine a coins grade is not a complicated process. If one truly loves the hobby of coin collecting or plans on starting their own business in Numismatics, grading is a practice that simply takes time and study, time and study.</div> </tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="35"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="943" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="35" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="425"><div> (b.)</div> <bR> <div>  <FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" >Just as any other field or hobby, the more one learns the greater their enjoyment and their ability to build a great collection of their own. Remember this, even the third party grading services employ new technology to grade coins, they use the same photos of various grades for comparison when grading coins. No one person can simply after a quick look at a coin and say "yes this is a mint strike 64 when it could be a 68 to another grader. They may have this ability if they only work with one or two varieties and they know all there is to know. Only through many years of grading coins can someone come to a quick judgment and even then, is it truly what they think it is. If it were that easy, then there would be no need for the major grading companies to possess a large photo library of previously graded coins for reference.</FONT></div> <bR> <div> Here is a simple method to help one develop the ability to train their eyes. If one was to place a Proof 70 next to a Proof 69 of the identical variety of coin (it does not have to be an expensive one either) after comparing the "field" on the two coins, you will suddenly spot the difference, the field would be smooth with no distortion at all while the PR69 will show slight ripples or some distortion. Try this yourself. Have some one place the coins side by side and cover up the top of the slab so you only see the coin. </div> <bR> <div> Then see if you can pick out the 70. You will be amazed at how easy this becomes after a while. If you have even more of the same variety in different grades, all the better. If you feel you have mastered this, try it with a Mint Strike 70 and 69. They are not as easy as a Proof coin, but you will soon see that even mint strikes have their own characteristics.</div> <bR> <div> Remember this, it is <I>your eyes that need to be trained as well as your brain</I>. You can read and read but without examination through the use of your eyes, you will only know half of what one needs to know regarding grading. If you take the time to understand the process and train as an athlete would for a marathon, you will find out later that you develop "the eyes" to spot that perfect coin and perhaps prevent yourself from buying a coin that later on you regret purchasing.</div> </tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="326" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 19 ><NOBR><div> <B>Proper Handling and Storage of Coins</B></div> </NOBR></tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <div> By Dans Coins</div> <div> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="915" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 753 WIDTH="429"><div>    <B>STORAGE</B></div> <bR> <div>  A<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" >void soft plastic flips made with PVC (polyvinyl chloride) as this compound is unstable and will break down overtime causing the release of harmful chemicals that will overtime eat away at the metal and may attack the coins surface causing unsightly scars. This is especially important if one stores coins in bank safe deposit boxes for long periods of time. Many a collector has opened their "private stock" only to find coins damaged and now worth much less. Even bank vaults that offer enhanced environments are great for storing documents because they increase the humidity of the air. Now this helps protect paper documents but will ruin coins due to the extra moisture. Water is the enemy of coins!. You would do better to store your coins at a bank that offers cheaper storage rates because they do not enhance the air in the vaults.</FONT></div> <bR> <div> Long term storage in Mylar flips is not a good thing either as they are not air tight. If you must use them, keep them in a sealed dry container. Today one can find pvc free storage containers such as "Air-Tight" holders that come in a wide range of sizes to fit all coins and also there are new 2x2 holders that seal by themselves avoiding the use of the old fashioned "staples" to secure the coin. You can find these at most all of the coin wholesalers online.</div> <bR> <div> Storage all depends upon the individual collector and the value of their collection. Simple folders with cut out holes are good for circulated coins of no great value. Mint state coins are a different story. This type should be placed in "album" type holders where both sides of the coin are protected. However, there is a trade off and that is album holders may cause "slide marks" when removing the slides to place coins into the album.</div> <div> The only perfect method is to have the coin graded and slabbed by a 3rdparty grading company. Avoid the cheaper ones if possible. The top 2 are that way for their practices and procedures as well as the condition of their process to protect your future investment or favorite coin.</div> </tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="35"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="753" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="35" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="425"><div>  <FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" ><B>HANDELING</B></FONT></div> <bR> <div>  T<FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#000000" FACE="Arial" >he most important and cardinal rule, DO NOT touch any raw coins with your thumb or any other finger without wearing good cotton gloves. If you must look at a coin, place it on a soft surface and flip it over with a piece</FONT></div> <div>  of paper. </div> <bR> <div> They should also only be gripped by their edges. Touching a coin with bare fingers may not at first affect the coin, but the chemicals in your body will. It may not show for years but when it does appear, it will be impossible to remove.</div> <bR> <div> Always view coins with a soft cloth or piece of velvet underneath the coin, this lessens the chance of damage if dropped. In some cases, just the slightest mark made by dropping a coin can mean the difference between a 69 or 70 grade and thousands in value.</div> <bR> <div> Proof coins are the hardest to work with. Just the slightest rub from a finger or other external contact may leave "hairlines" which are very fine and not apparent until observed under magnification. Proofs are made from special planchets (unstamped disks) and are stamped with polished dies a multiple number of times. It is because of this process any and every flaw however minute is detectable and detracting.</div> </tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="326" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 19 WIDTH="314"><div> <B>Counterfeit Detecting   Part I</B></div> </tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <div> By Nova Online, Inc.</div> <div> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="915" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 1560 WIDTH="429"><bR> <div> Detecting counterfeits is a topic that is so large that I could write volumes on each specialty.  There are no simple answers.  A general answer would be:  become a true numismatist, study your specialty, and become an expert in it.  A true expert, not one who hangs out a shingle and claims it, but one who is recognized as such by the international numismatic community.</div> <bR> <div> Let me break up the discussion into several time periods {yes, I know the dates are somewhat approximate):  ancient coinage (struck and cast, before 500 CE, Byzantine/medieval coinage (struck, hammered, and cast, 500-1500 CE), and modern coinage (after 1500 CE).  There are also non-metallic money and various forms of paper money.</div> <bR> <div> I should also discuss separately the various types of counterfeits:  contemporary counterfeits (those meant to replace genuine money and were meant to defraud the public as opposed to modern collectors), spurious issues, fantasy issues, and facsimiles/copies/replicas.  There are then production differences such as struck counterfeits, electrotypes and casts.  There are also legitimate issues which resemble counterfeits to some degree such as errors, debased coinage, patterns, trials, specimens, off-metal strikes, etc.  From time to time, there are counterfeits struck by legitimate minters (ie: fourrees).</div> <bR> <div> Yes, I collect counterfeits.  I have culled thousands of counterfeits in the 42 years I have been in business.  I see many counterfeits and altered numismatic items practically daily.  Most are owned by innocent second, third and fourth parties who have been advertently or inadvertently duped. I am not an expert.  I can still be fooled from time to time.</div> <bR> <div> Before I go into the actual detecting of fakes, let me make a few comments on the postings I have read on this subject so far. </div> <bR> <div> I agree wholeheartedly that knowledge of the coin and history is paramount.  You cannot detect fakes if you do not know how the originals are made, how they look, and the tolerances in the weight, strike, feel, metal, etc. allowed.  Anomalies on the flan (planchet), however, are not necessarily a determining factor as the genuine dies frequently suffer similar anomalies.  Knowing the die attributes and comparing known attributes, however, is a valid method.  If you can tell the difference between die polish marks, adjustment marks, and whizzing/tooling, that will also help.  Cleaned coins are another matter entirely.  Most coins in some specialty areas require cleaning and do not come uncleaned.  Artificial toning is another matter altogether -- these often hide tooling marks or other detractions besides being ugly in themselves. </div> <bR> <div> Experienced numismatists can usually tell when something is not right.  This intuition can be developed by study and by dispensing with greed.  The color may be wrong.  The coin may feel wrong.  It may be too nice for the type or series.  Handling thousands of coins in a specialty will help develop this sense.</div> <bR> <div> Slabs.  Third party opinions.  In my opinion, they are no better than any experienced numismatist, and certainly inferior to a specialist/expert in an area.  I have seen hundreds of fakes which have been slabbed, even some by the major services.  Recently there was a minor scandal where a well-known (to specialists) counterfeit was slabbed as a genuine high grade coin.  Ridiculous, but the slabbing companies cannot be expected to have on retention experts in every specialty.</div> <bR> <div> If you are not an expert, then buying from a reputable dealer who will give you a solid money back guarantee may be in order.  Buying from unknown sources through forums such as eBay is not for the layman.  Although most sellers are presumably honest, they do not necessarily have the expertise to attribute and authenticate items not in their specialty.  Additionally, there are the unscrupulous sellers who prey on the novice and the greedy.  If you need to seek advise, seek from a qualified expert, not your buddy who may or may not know anything.  Not from a dealer or collector who immediately goes to a standard reference book to look it up.  Seek the numismatic student.  If you are not a classic collector (one assembling and studying a numismatic theme), stick to something you can afford to lose, at least until you become a collector.</div> <bR> <bR> </tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="35"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1560" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="35" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="425"><div> Boycotting coins originating from or vended from certain places is not the answer.  True, many coins coming out of China (actually SE Asia) and sold to tourists and servicemen are fakes; however, the majority are not.  So if we try boycotting coins from certain countries, we may as well not buy coins originating in Bulgaria, Lebanon, Jordan, Germany, Russia, and dozens of other places since they were also hotbeds of counterfeiting at one time.  Some still are and more are on the way.  A few simple tests, some not requiring anything elaborate, will weed out most of these anyway.</div> <bR> <div> Counterfeiting is not new.  This has been a problem for centuries.  There is a constant struggle between the producers of circulating money and the counterfeiters, the former to make money harder to duplicate, and the latter to make passable copies.  The modern counterfeiter also targets the greedy investor who wants to make a quick buck.  These can be the most challenging counterfeits to detect.</div> <bR> <div> Assuming that the counterfeit item is not a crude copy, easily detected through casting bubbles, edge seams or other obvious manifestations, it is usually necessary to employ a magnifier or loupe and an accurate scale.  It will also help if you have the apparatus to measure specific gravity although other means will usually expose the fake.</div> <bR> <div> Let's start with modern coins.  These will be struck and milled.  For large coins (half dollar size or larger), an easy test for the metallic content is tintinnabulation.  The ringing of the coin.  Noble metals such as silver and gold have a low, rich sound.  Base metal coins have a higher pitched ring.  Take a silver dollar, balance it on your finger or pencil, and tap it lightly with something.  Note the sound.  Take your Chinese coin and do the same.  If it doesn't sound alike, then the higher pitched one is a fake.  Detect 99% of Chinese counterfeits this way.  2 seconds, no cost.  Easy.</div> <bR> <div> Want a surer method?  Weigh it.  Chinese crowns weigh at least 26.5 grams.  The usual fakes will weigh at least 3-4 grams less, some as little as 18-21 grams.  Again easy, but will require a scale.  If you know the weight or composition of specific coins, weight and spec gravity tests will generally expose the fake.</div> <bR> <div> Casts.  Did you know that some coins are minted by casting?  Make sure the coin you are testing is not one of those.  Then look for casting bubbles, porosity, fuzziness of detail, etc.  Halves of coins have to joined in casts.  Look for a telltale edge where the two halves were joined, then filed away.  Drop in casts are a bit more difficult, but the seams can still be found on most of them.  Some fine sand casts are incredible, and you will have to resort to other measures, such as tintinnabulation.  Only struck coins ring well.  Cast coins generally thunk.</div> <div>  </div> <div> Electrotypes.  Look for softness of detail and edge problems.  As in casts, two halves must be joined.</div> <bR> <div> Struck copies.  These can be the toughest to detect; however, knowing the die characteristics of genuine coins help.  Look also for weakness and slight changes in details due to the production of copy dies from an original. </div> <bR> <div> Knowing your coin or note is the primary key.  If you are unwilling or unable to put in many hours of study, stay away from expensive items.</div> <bR> <div> Not all dealers are crooks.  Nor are they all competent in this area.  Honest dealers make mistakes too, but they generally will make good when presented with evidence of faulty authentication.  Deal with the trustworthy and knowledgeable ones.  Avoid others.</div> </tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <bR> <bR> <bR> <bR> <div> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="326" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 19 WIDTH="314"><div> <B>Counterfeit Detecting   Part II</B></div> </tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <div> By Nova Online, Inc.</div> <div> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="915" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 1027 WIDTH="429"><bR> <div> We must approach the counterfeit detection of other areas differently. </div> <bR> <div> I will now discuss briefly the problems with ancient and medieval coinage.  These will be struck, hammered, or cast, on the most part.  Tintinnabulation will not work.  Looking for porosity and flan flaws will not work.  Testing for metallic content is futile.  Most coins will be cleaned, sometimes abrasively.  Weighing will work somewhat better, but is not necessarily definitive.</div> <bR> <div> Slabbed ancients are generally worthless from the standpoint of reliability.  I have seen copies slabbed as genuine, grading totally random, and attributions incorrect even in gross.  This is mostly due to the unavailability of experts in each ancient subspecialty.  Additionally, when grading comes into play, we must determine what our grading scale is to be -- each country and specialty has their own terms and scale.  U.S. mint state grading is worthless. </div> <bR> <div> The tourist fakes are easy to detect.  Most are crudely-produced with a telltale seam or remnant along the edge.  Those produced in the last few decades also indicate somewhere on the coin an indication of the item being a copy.  They are also generally of the wrong metal, style, type, or whatever -- in other words, totally incorrect and obvious to even a novice numismatist.</div> <bR> <div> Apart from that, you must use common sense and develop an instinct.  Common sense -- most ancients, not only the rare ones, are scarce or rare when compared to modern coins.  Millions are not produced.  Even thousands are hard to find unless of the commonest varieties.  No two are ever precisely alike due to the handmade nature of these coins.  Hence, if you see two coins precisely alike as to weight, dimension, strike, centering, etc., they are copies.  The term "rare" is numismatically accepted as having an availability of less than 200 specimens.  With ancients, it is less than a dozen.  Of course, few today use the term in the strictest sense.  Mint state?  Again, other than for the commonest of them, there are too few and seen seldomly.  I examine closely ALL high grade ancients/medievals.  In fact, apart from specimens residing in museum and major public collections, I have seen only one true fleur-de-coin ancient.  Have you noted the proliferation of high grade and rare ancient/medieval coins on eBay?  Most of them are so laughable and can be detected false by a casual glance at the scans.  There are, however, some very good fakes being sold to novice buyers.  Experienced collectors know better, and will always have an expert source to consult before buying anything expensive.</div> <bR> <bR> <bR> </tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="35"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1027" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="35" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="425"><div> Ancient and medieval coinage are not perfectly round.  Additionally, many come clipped or cut.  Some are even counterfeited at the mint of origin, either by dishonest minters or by order of the issuing authority.  Some issues were purposefully cut into fractions in order to make change, and therefore, are actually half coins or quarter coins, or less.  Some are contemporary genuine imitations of major coinage of major nations produced by lesser nations to facilitate circulation.  These are issues on their own and not necessarily counterfeits.  Many coins come encrusted, corroded, or weather-damaged in some way.  Most require cleaning to various degrees.</div> <bR> <div> I will only discuss the fakes produced to fool the modern buyer here.  Firstly there are casts of genuine coins.  See the previous post for descriptions of these.  In this specialty area, some very fine sand casts exist.  They are good enough to fool many experts, but take a large amount of time and effort to produce.  Therefore, the majority of the really good fakes are of the high-priced rare issues.  The metal is also usually close if not absolutely correct.</div> <bR> <div> Electrotypes are much easier to detect.  Look for softness of detail and edge problems.  As in casts, two halves must be joined.  The metal is generally incorrect.</div> <bR> <div> The commonly-encountered mass-produced ancients are struck.  The die characteristics of each issue is exactly alike from copy to copy.  The metal is slightly off in composition.  Almost all are high grade.  They are generally of the moderately priced issues, although I have seen some of the cheapies and some of the expensive ones.</div> <bR> <div> Struck copies of the better coins are very good.  The copy dies are high quality and must be lathe-engraved.  Again, expensive and time-consuming to produce, and found only of rare and expensive material.</div> <bR> <div> It is necessary to understand the style of each issue.  Some copies I have seen are of the wrong style for the period, and hence, suspected at once by a knowledgeable numismatist.  Blundered legends are also fairly common, although much of this is also seen on contemporary counterfeits. </div> <bR> <div> Ancient and medieval coins were produced for use in commerce.  There were no proof or mint sets, or NCLT''s, back then.  Coins which have seen little or no circulation are immediately suspect and will require close examination.  If a coin shows a flawless surface, it is also suspect.  Remember that there were no stainless steel dies back then.  </div> <div>  </div> </tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <bR> <bR> <div> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="326" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 19 WIDTH="314"><div> <B>Counterfeit Detecting   Part III</B></div> </tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <div> By Nova Online, Inc.</div> <div> <TABLE BORDER="2" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="1" WIDTH="915" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 1237 WIDTH="429"><div>      Counterfeits of paper money are of various types.  There are those intended to defraud the public and the issuing authorities.  There are those intended to fool the collector.  There are replicas and copies which inadvertently enter the collector marketplace.  There are those which are highly collectable due to the historical aspects.</div> <bR> <div>      As with coinage, there are various types of counterfeits.  Since many different methods were used to produce paper money, each type has its own distinctive counterfeits.  These can get quite confusing.</div> <bR> <div>     Firstly, it is important to know the type of paper or alternate material on which the printing is applied.  We have all encountered the artificially yellowed and aged stiff fake "parchment" produced to create notes, documents and related items.  ALL such items are spurious.  Paper does not age in that fashion. </div> <bR> <div>     Secondly, you must understand the printing process.  Was it from engraved plates?  Typewritten?  Typeset?  Embossed?  Hand-written?  Hand-signed?  Hand-numbered?  More than one process involved?  More than one printing involved?  What kind of feed mechanism?  Printing configuration?  Sheet size?  Hand-cut or machine-cut?  There are several more factors dependent on the specific issue.  Knowing these characteristics will eliminate another large group of fakes.</div> <bR> <div>     Thirdly, you must know the specific design attributes of the note.  Most notes produced from faked plates have a number of differences in the design elements.</div> <bR> <div>      Other giveaways include, but is not limited to, softness of design elements, incorrect plate numbers, incorrect series designations/serial number configurations, wrong signatures, alterations of the design, additions to the design, erasure of design elements, chemical treatment of the note, fantasies, etc.  There are also cases where the counterfeits were superior in quality to the genuine notes and therefore detectable due to their better production. </div> <bR> <div>      American Colonial and Continental notes - Fakes of these are usually easy to detect since they are mostly of the artificially aged and yellowed parchment variety.  Notes of this time period were printed on thick cardboard-like paper and on thin off-white paper.  All notes were hand-signed and hand-numbered.  Contemporary counterfeits, which are very collectible and often pricier than the genuine notes, can be detected due to the minor differences in their design elements.  Get a copy of Newman.</div> <bR> <div>   American Obsolete and Confederate notes - This area appears to produce the largest number of fakes of any paper issue.  There are those on the artificially aged stuff.  There are those with printed signatures and serial numbers where the originals were hand-finished.  There are raised denomination notes.  There are spuriously-issued notes.  There are other altered notes.  There are those that are of higher quality than the originals.  There are modern reproductions with the word FACSIMILE on the back, which may or may not have been erased.  There are contemporary counterfeits of various types which are generally collectible -- some issues only survive as counterfeits.  There are replicas produced on modern copying machines which are detectable due to the wrongness of the paper. </div> </tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="35"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="1237" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="35" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></tD> <tD VALIGN=TOP WIDTH="425"><div>         U.S. currency -- Large size notes, especially those of higher denominations, are encountered from time to time.  Merchants of that time period subscribed to various counterfeit detectors, shields, etc. to protect themselves.  There are also numerous counterfeits of fractional currency.  Most of these early counterfeits are contemporary although modern fakes have started to become a problem.  Collectors of small size currency, however, have to constantly beware of fakes.  Fake errors are the commonest.  Cutting errors are easily produced by improperly cutting apart a BEP sheet.  Notes with yellow or gold seals are easily produced by washing silver certificates in a clorox solution.  As a matter of fact, changing the color of various note overprints seems to be a pastime of some fake artists.  Altered plate and serial numbers are also encountered, as are erased design elements.</div> <bR> <div>      World currency - Some of the most interesting contemporary counterfeits are available in this specialty area.  We have all heard of Operation Bernhard where almost perfect examples of the British 5, 10, 20 and 50 Pound notes were produced.  Hundreds of other economic warfare notes were printed by various countries and governments.  Many modern circulating counterfeits, especially of hard currencies, exist.  There is a constant battle between the issuers and the counterfeiters where issuers try new security devices and counterfeiters attempt to circumvent them.</div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div>      I maintain a large database of counterfeit coins and currency.  I add new ones several times a month just from my buying material from around the world.  A related area, especially in paper money, is the processing of notes to improve the look.  Many notes are washed, starched and ironed to produce the appearance of a higher grade note.  I have often seen notes I have sold at a relatively low grade encased in slabs at a much higher grade after being starched and pressed.  I have also seen some of these notes offered at certain major auctions without any mention of the processing.  There have also been a number of forgeries which have been slabbed and/or sold at auction.  Repairing of notes is also commonplace.  It is therefore necessary for a collector to learn not only how to detect forgeries, but also how to detect processed and repaired notes.</div> </tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <bR> <bR> </td> </tr></table></body>